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La Seu d'Urgell (L’Alt Urgell - Spain) is a town full of beauty, charm and mystery located on the interfluve between the rivers Segre and Valira. It sits on top of a small river terrace at an altitude of 691 m and at a point at which two major road systems also converge. It is said that, like young women, settlements can appear more or less attractive according to the side from which they are observed. La Seu d'Urgell proves an exception to this rule as its beauty remains apparent regardless of the position from which it is observed. The whole historic nucleus of La Seu is an authentic monument, but above all it is necessary to highlight the outstanding beauty of the Cathedral of Santa Maria. The present day cathedral, which was built in the Romanesque-Lombard style, dates from the 12th century. At the beginning of the 12th century, the cathedral dedicated to Saint Ermengol was in a ruinous state. The local bishop, Saint Ot, played a leading role in promoting a new construction. However, the definitive impulse arrived in the year 1175, when the cathedral governor and bishop Arnau de Preixens decided to contract the services of a certain Ramon Lambard (who seems to have been Italian) to complete and add the finishing touches to the building in the Italianised Romanesque style that already characterised it. This cathedral was therefore built with forms that had a clearly Italian influence. This contrasted with the predominant tendency of that time which was completely influenced by the Romanesque schools of the south of France. All of the researchers who have studied the Cathedral of La Seu d'Urgell coincide in affirming the close relationship between its architecture and that of the Italian models of the 12th century. The (13th century) cloister is located on the southern side of the temple; three of its sides are original and the east side was replaced in 1603. Inside the cathedral of La Seu d'Urgell, visitors will discover a polychrome engraving of the Virgin Mary with the Baby Jesus in her lap. The work, which originally dates from the 13th century, was notably restored in 1922 and is known as Santa Maria d'Urgell, the Magna Parens and Magna Domina Urgellitana. It has also been referred to as the Virgin Mary of Andorra. The Diocesan Museum of La Seu d'Urgell is well worth a visit. It houses paintings, sculptures and examples of craftwork in gold and silver from parish churches throughout the diocese and the treasures of the cathedral. As such, it bears invaluable testimony to the history of L'Alt Urgell and the Pyrenees (Spain). It is possible to visit the museum during the period in which the building is open to the public. Source and photographic archive: JOAN BELLMUNT I FIGUERAS
Leaving La Seu d'Urgell in the direction of Andorra, visitors will find the village of Anserall (L’Alt Urgell - Spain) in the middle of the Valira valley. It stands on the right bank of the river that gives the valley its name and at an altitude of 740 m. About 300 metres to the north of the village stands the old Benedictine abbey of Sant Serni de Tavèrnoles, which is popularly referred to by the local population as “the monastery". For many years, this building suffered a form of relative abandon, which even went as far as threatening its very existence. However, a series of restoration work has recently been carried out that has consolidated the structure and left it in much better condition. The recovery of such a significant example of regional historic patrimony is motive for a certain degree of satisfaction. This is, without doubt, probably the most important coenobium in the territory of Urgell. This abbey, which stands close to the old path that used to connect Andorra to La Seu d’Urgell, was called "Tavèrnoles", probably because there had once been several inns or taverns along it at the service of travellers. At the end of the Middle Ages, the Tavèrnoles route quickly fell into decline, with this process coming to a head at the end of the 16th century when the coenobium was abandoned. The origins of Sant Serni lie hidden in the all-embracing blanket of the remote and unknown. It is said that before the year 780 there was already a monk, called Fèlix, at Tavèrnoles, who was active in reconverting this area of the Pyrenees to Christianity. Two years later, this same monk was made Bishop of Urgell. One of the figures who gave most prestige to the monastery in the early 11th century was Abbot Ponç. The growth and consolidation of goods and properties made it possible to construct a new monastic temple. In 1592, Pope Clement 8th formally abolished the monastery. This was followed by the plundering of the complex, the collapse of its walls and the three naves of the Romanesque church and a long period of decline and degradation, with the building’s stone walls becoming overgrown with vegetation. Today, things have luckily changed and visitors will find a single monumental complex which owes much to the hard work of the architect Francesc Pons Sorolla, which deserves to be mentioned and given the recognition that it deserves. Those interested in visiting this site can do so either by car or by walking from Anserall, where visitors can ask for the key to the building. Source and photographic archive: JOAN BELLMUNT I FIGUERAS
Off to the left at about the 26.5 km point along the road that connects Coll de Nargó and Isona (heading from the first village and towards the second) visitors will find an imposing house-castle called Els Vilars. Immediately next to this building there is a beautiful rustic-style chapel dedicated to Sant Miquel, which in the past had served as the venue for celebrating gatherings in honour of this saint. At this point, visitors should turn off and take the path that leads to Valldarques (L’Alt Urgell - Spain), which is not in very good condition. The coomb of Valldarques (at an altitude of 931 m) is a truly unique place on account of its special configuration and beauty. Its form is reminiscent of a series of sentries that guard access to the majestic mountains that give form to this valley. It is very difficult for a mere human to do justice to the beauty of this setting in writing. The Romanesque church of Sant Romà is a true marvel. It was possibly built in the 12th century or at least this was probably when the Church of Sant Romà de Valldarques was reconstructed at a sheltered site in the middle of the valley. The belfry of Sant Romà is a veritable jewel of Romanesque architecture. In July 1284, Jaume d'Oliana sold Bishop Pere d'Urgell the rights that he claimed to possess over the territory of Valldarques. After this, the bishop must have searched for a person of his confidence to take charge of this site. But it was not long before Valldarques suffered a demographic crisis, in the 14th century, and there are no signs of any construction work having been carried out in the valley during that period. In the 17th century there was another reform. At the beginning of the 20th century there were around fifty occupied houses in the area around Valldarques. Today, many of these houses are unoccupied. This is a spot that those who love trekking and discovering the country really must visit. It is a destination where nature and art harmoniously combine. It is possible to reach this site by motor vehicle following the previously described route. Source and photographic archive: JOAN BELLMUNT I FIGUERAS
